First time Linn owner here. LK280 + Spark + Saras

[Rational]

Hi guys,
My first thread post.

I've picked up a Linn LK280 with Spark to go along with my Linn Isobarik Saras I got a few months before. My saras have the XLR on the top rear facing down. Got the original cables with female xlr connectors on them to match. No grills. No dust caps.

I had to make a special XLR cable for the right channel to connect the LK280 to test them out but finally got them going yesterday.

Quite impressed with the clarity of them actually. Clinical I'd say. Very clear with a very low noise floor.

I'm feeding them with my Avid Eleven Rack which is one of the clearest interfaces I own, so the Linn signal chain is maintaining that nicely.

I'm not sure if it's me, but perhaps the SS design is so crisp that it's kinda fatiguing my ears? It sounds a bit harsh almost? Like so crisp and clear and kind of rigid?
Am I hearing that right?

The clarity is extremely good though. I'm hearing a lot I haven't heard in other setups. Not even studio monitors of which I have like 15+ different pairs.

Perhaps I'm just not used to that quick of a response to the off condition in the amp and speaker response? Got it set to 32bit 44.1khz currently, but need to listen to some FLAC material before I judge more. Was just using Spotify (Free) and YT for some quick tests last night. Might be that I'm hearing the limits of those formats now that the clarity is so high.

So I've got some questions:
1. Is there a remote control for the LK280 and/or Spark? If so, which model remote is it? And is it required? What does it do other than volume?
2. What are the other matching components that are supposed to go with these two if any? I saw a Linn Kudos tuner where I bought these. Might grab it. Worth it?
3. Is the guy who invented the Linn drum the same guy who started Linn audio?

Thanks guys.

 

[Imseti]

There is no remote for the LK280 with or without a Spark as it is a power-amp.
However in answer to your other question, there is an LK1 pre-amp which does have a remote - the early ones were terrible but later Linn remotes are available esp. for the Kairn pre-amp - not sure whether the later remotes will work with an early LK1 - can't remember now.

So you need an LK1 pre-amp or use a Kairn with different wiring to the LK280.

Yes, the Kudos tuner would be fine in this sort of system which is very old now, so beware of problems with all of these components, which I had new in the early 1980s.

Roger Linn's LinnDrum is not connected to British Linn Products at all - different guy to Ivor Tiefenbrun who founded Linn Products in Glasgow.

 

[Moomintroll]

Welcome, it’s always nice to get new posters. Let’s see how well I can answer your questions:

1. No. The LK280 is “just” a power amp. Volume control would be provided by a pre-amp. It will now be in excess of 30 years old and may well need to have some capacitors replaced to bring it back to specification.
2. The matching pre-amplifier was the LK1. This had an optional remote control. The Kudos came later, and is a standalone FM tuner. You’d really still need a pre-amp, the original LK1 or the later Kairn (which was much better) would be an ideal match.
3. No. Linn Products was started in 1972 by Ivor Tiefenbrun and is now run by his son, Gilad. Linn is named after Linn Park in Glasgow, which was opposite the original factory. The Linn drum was invented by Roger Linn. No connection with Linn Products.

’troll

 

[Moomintroll]

However in answer to your other question, there is an LK1 pre-amp which does have a remote - the early ones were terrible but later Linn remotes are available esp. for the Kairn pre-amp - not sure whether the later remotes will work with an early LK1 - can't remember now.

The LK1 remotes were based on a Ferguson model, IIRC. The later remotes are based on a Philips design and use RC5 codes, and don’t work with the LK1.

’troll

 

[maddog_007]

There is no remote for the LK280 with or without a Spark as it is a power-amp.
However in answer to your other question, there is an LK1 pre-amp which does have a remote - the early ones were terrible but later Linn remotes are available esp. for the Kairn pre-amp - not sure whether the later remotes will work with an early LK1 - can't remember now.

So you need an LK1 pre-amp or use a Kairn with different wiring to the LK280.

Yes, the Kudos tuner would be fine in this sort of system which is very old now, so beware of problems with all of these components, which I had new in the early 1980s.

Roger Linn's LinnDrum is not connected to British Linn Products at all - different guy to Ivor Tiefenbrun who founded Linn Products in Glasgow.

Used to run my Kabers aktiv with 3 x LK280's
and a Tunebox for the cards.
Kabers lurve powah!

 

[Imseti]

Used to run my Kabers aktiv with 3 x LK280's
and a Tunebox for the cards.
Kabers lurve powah!

Haha, I used to run three LK280s with later three Sparks to my Aktiv Isobariks through Linn's Aktiv crossover - was my first Linn system.

This was when Linn parted with their informal agreement with Naim which was to leave all the electronics to Naim - nothing like a six-pack of Naim NAP135s and Naim active crossover for Linn Isobariks.

 

[maddog_007]

Haha, I used to run three LK280s with later three Sparks to my Aktiv Isobariks through Linn's Aktiv crossover - was my first Linn system.

This was when Linn parted with their informal agreement with Naim which was to leave all the electronics to Naim - nothing like a six-pack of NAP135s and Naim active crossover for Linn Isobariks.

Six pack of 135's would be a small fortune these days..
My young daughter managed to blow up my 280's by dropping her juice over them...
Claimed the house insurance and LINN sent me 3 x Akurate C4200's as 280's were out of production!..I still use one of them.

 

[Rational]

Thanks guys. Great replies. I appreciate it very much.

Thought I'd post some pics as those are always nice to see, right?



Turns out I have a little buzzing or rattling going on in my right Sara from 20hz to 75hz when using this test pattern here:

Seems like I'll have to take apart the woofer section and figure out what's rattling. Very quiet but definitely there. Perhaps that's what my ear was picking up earlier. I've always loved doped cones though and these are perfect. A lot like my Polk Monitor 10s. The doping is just right to kill any sound that some cone materials can typically make to distract the listener. I'm a fan of soft dome tweeters and these are a bit brighter then most. But perhaps that's why they have such clarity. Listening to some of my favorite Seamoon tracks on them now. Very detailed.



I ended up buying a 5pin xlr to 4 RCA cable set off of eBay last week and I believe they might actually go to the LK1? Not usable by me right now unfortunately. Perhaps I should keep them in case I get an LK1 eventually? What are the 4 RCA jacks for? I've never seen this design before. Very interesting.

Someone had the XLR 3pin to RCA on eBay last week but he's since ended the auction...

I got the Saras and LK280+Spark for a song, so am not sure I'm going to pursue an LK1 right now. Got a big bill coming up from an ICU visit last month I'll need to pay soon, so I'll have to seek other options for now. Taking all recommendations for good value temporary options.

Thanks guys for the warm welcome and multiple quality replies. Nice forum.

Apologies for the studio mess. It's in a redesign right now.

 

[Rational]

You’d really still need a pre-amp, the original LK1 or the later Kairn (which was much better) would be an ideal match.

Thanks for the mention on the Kairn. I'll have to look it up. Pricey still sadly it looks like. But I'll be on the lookout for one over an LK1 if one pops up. Thank you for the fine answers.

 

[Moomintroll]

I ended up buying a 5pin xlr to 4 RCA cable set off of eBay last week and I believe they might actually go to the LK1? Not usable by me right now unfortunately. Perhaps I should keep them in case I get an LK1 eventually? What are the 4 RCA jacks for? I've never seen this design before. Very interesting.

No, the LK1 uses XLR sockets too; the wiring schematic should be on the rear panel. The cable you have would be for something like a cassette deck - tape in/tape out.

’troll

 

[Nopiano]

Welcome! Great pics of all your kit. I’m afraid the Saras are getting on a bit too, so the odd buzz or rattle isn’t a complete surprise. I can’t recall the exact construction but you’ll know there are drivers inside too, so some care will be needed.

 

[Nopiano]

Here’s a good pic from Wilmslow Audio’s Facebook page. They refurbed some in May 2020 so will know the ropes if you need help.

 

[Moomintroll]

If you’re lucky, the noise may go if you can rotate the bass units by 180 degrees as it may just be the result of 30 years of gravity on the cone. It could also be that some wadding has shifted and it’s some wiring that is rubbing.

This may be useful - https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/dismantling-linn-saras.242323/

’troll

 

[ThomasOK]

As mentioned the LK1 was the matching Linn preamp. It did have a remote control but it was unique to that unit. None of the later Linn remote controls, and there have been many, will work with the LK1. The problem is that the LK1 front panel control board is a common failure point and without that you have no control of the preamp. Overall I would highly recommend waiting until you can afford a Linn Kairn if you want to try an all Linn system. It is a much better preamp than the LK1, works with a bunch of remote controls and sells for a reasonable price nowadays. It also uses RCAs so the only adaptor cables you need are custom built RCA to XLR cables to go to the LK280.

I'm going to one up Imseti by mentioning that I had Aktiv Isobariks with 4 LK280/Sparks (one for front woofers and one for the rear ones, as recommended for Keltiks) and the Isobarik crossover with external Dirak power supply and Bingo EQ card. Since the power supplies and amp channels were separate including two mains transformers and two power cables my LK280/SPARK setup could rightly be called an 8 pack! I never had a six pack of Naim NAP135s but I had a single pair passive and I preferred the LK280, even without SPARK. I still have 2 LK280/SPARKs in my home theater room driving front and rear pairs of Isobarik DMS passive.

Note that the SARAs are basically designed to go as close to the back wall as possible without the connector touching, the main reason for the 90° XLR socket. Only when set up very close to the wall, with little or no toe in and on a very rigid stand will you get the proper bass response and balance that those speakers were designed to provide.

Finally, with electronics of that age you probably are going to want to look at recapping the power supply (the SPARK) and also the power supply caps in the LK280 itself. These parts do degrade over time losing musical quality and eventually adding hum and noise.

Addendum: I just looked at the photos and what you said about no dustcaps sunk in. You need to replicate the dustcaps Linn had on there for the woofers to work properly. Without them the normally sealed Isobarik chamber between the two woofers will vent out of the voice coil/magnet assembly. This will increase bass distortion and change the loading that the Isobarik system was designed for which allows for a deeper bass response than you would normally get from those drivers.

 

[Rational]

As mentioned the LK1 was the matching Linn preamp. It did have a remote control but it was unique to that unit. None of the later Linn remote controls, and there have been many, will work with the LK1. The problem is that the LK1 front panel control board is a common failure point and without that you have no control of the preamp. Overall I would highly recommend waiting until you can afford a Linn Kairn if you want to try an all Linn system. It is a much better preamp than the LK1, works with a bunch of remote controls and sells for a reasonable price nowadays. It also uses RCAs so the only adaptor cables you need are custom built RCA to XLR cables to go to the LK280.

I'm going to one up Imseti by mentioning that I had Aktiv Isobariks with 4 LK280/Sparks (one for front woofers and one for the rear ones, as recommended for Keltiks) and the Isobarik crossover with external Dirak power supply and Bingo EQ card. Since the power supplies and amp channels were separate including two mains transformers and two power cables my LK280/SPARK setup could rightly be called an 8 pack! I never had a six pack of Naim NAP135s but I had a single pair passive and I preferred the LK280, even without SPARK. I still have 2 LK280/SPARKs in my home theater room driving front and rear pairs of Isobarik DMS passive.

Note that the SARAs are basically designed to go as close to the back wall as possible without the connector touching, the main reason for the 90° XLR socket. Only when set up very close to the wall, with little or no toe in and on a very rigid stand will you get the proper bass response and balance that those speakers were designed to provide.

Finally, with electronics of that age you probably are going to want to look at recapping the power supply (the SPARK) and also the power supply caps in the LK280 itself. These parts do degrade over time losing musical quality and eventually adding hum and noise.

Addendum: I just looked at the photos and what you said about no dustcaps sunk in. You need to replicate the dustcaps Linn had on there for the woofers to work properly. Without them the normally sealed Isobarik chamber between the two woofers will vent out of the voice coil/magnet assembly. This will increase bass distortion and change the loading that the Isobarik system was designed for which allows for a deeper bass response than you would normally get from those drivers.

Thank you so much for the excellent response. Great info to have. I'll then plan for the kairn someday and skip the LK1 completely. I did find a pair of the original cutsom RCA to XLR cables for sale and should have them next month. So I got lucky there. Great to know how to position the Saras. I do remember reading that the early ones had no dustcap on them from the factory. So was planning to keep them stock without a dustcap. Not sure I'd do it right anyway. The bass response is good when I back up 6+ feet away from them so you are correct on positioning. Perhaps someday I'll be able to source a pair of original metal stands. That'd be very nice to have.

Is there info online on the exact parts I'd need to recap these? So far they are performing very crisply so they may be fine for now. Or maybe the crispness that I'm hearing isn't their original performance state and I need to get them redone. It's a little fatiguing on the ear after awhile. Not sure if its the nature of the solid state amp or if it's the tweeter material and just being too close to them while doing my initial tests. Could be either. I'm worried a recap could be very expensive on the LK280 and Spark. What's it typically cost for parts alone?

Thanks so much for the fantastic sharing of knowledge. I can tell you know Linn inside and out. It's good to get this info while it's still available as it seems it's slowly disappearing over the years.

 

[Moomintroll]

Not that I’m advocating that you venture inside the amp, but if you want to know more, there is a service manual here - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1241125/Linn-Lk280.html#manual which you may find interesting/useful. There is also a complete parts list at the end, which will help you identify capacitor values and position on the board.

This thread on PinkFish may also be informative - https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/tweaking-recapping-an-lk280.28568/

and this one for the SARAs - http://www.nodecorporation.co.uk/sara01.htm

’troll