Indeed, for reasons both of room effect in terms of side-wall reflection/absorption and the direct sound off-axis response of the loudspeaker.The angle the speakers fire at you also affects tonal balance.
No, not really as like you, I would have expected the opposite. The only thought is that the back wall reflections are having an effect, whether there's anything between the loudspeakers like an equipment rack, a reflective surface like a coffee table. Room effects are probably the most difficult things to diagnose at long range.I don't quite understand this then because in my very small (9 x 7.5 ft) room, I sit in a pretty much 6 foot equilateral triangle arrangement with my speakers (Ditton 44's) 9" from the back wall and 18" from the side walls, firing straight down the line and the stereo image is very good, focussed and pretty stable.As I start to toe-in the speakers, the imaging seems to become increasingly diffuse and not as well focussed, exactly the opposite to what I would expect.
Any ideas as to how / why ?
The difference between 1 and 1.1 is trivial and unlikely to make a large difference, although specific circumstances may dictate otherwise.Is there anything to extending the distance to a little bit more than that equal to the space between ? E.G. 1.1 times the gap between. I've seen that recommended. That and some toe in.Can I ask someone, perhaps Serge, about the measurment of the space between : Should it be considered as space between the inside sides of the cabinets, or, the distance between centre points of the drivers ?
Since we're on the subject of positioning, may I also ask if there is something to avoiding having the same space behind and to the sides of the speakers. I have read that ideally you should seek to have a ratio of about 1.6 (exhangeable either way round ) , derived from that Golden Ratio theory stuff.
Sorry, forgot about the distance between question:- Unless the 'speakers are very large, it isn't a critical measure, even the difference between 7 and 8 feet isn't that important, but I measure to the centre line of the drivers.Thanks Serge, for your reply.Could you also please answer what I asked about where to take "distance between" measurement i.e. between inside cabinet edges, or between centre points of drivers ? One method to another could mean a good foot of a difference. If meant to be say 7 or 8 feet apart, that's a big percentage difference especially.
Another room-speaker issue ..........
In my circumstances, a problem is short distance between head and wall behind. Very close maginifies certain bass. Cutting down from 1.1 to 1.0 listening distrance ratio would help a little to bring myself forward, but I'm still close, at maybe one and a half feet to two feet from wall behind. It's not going to change as I can't really re-arrange the room and listening position. The question then becomes, what panel would I need to place on the wall behind me ? I've been meaning to do that for a while.
Those GIK panels do look pretty useful. Still won't do a lot at LF, but then very little will. For the application required, they should work well, and are likely to be more acceptable domestically than a 100mm Rockwool panel.Measure from driver centres. For room modes consider bass driver.You need an absorptive panel behind you. Hang a duvet over a couple of broom handles behind your head, see what it does to the sound.
A couple of GIK 244 bradband bass traps should work nicely (full range option, not range limiter).
Totally agree. Anyone who's been inside an anechoic chamber knows how oppressive that can be. There are ideal RT60 times for performing music, which differ according to the type and scale of the music...which is why chamber music is performed in smallish rooms and symphonies are performed in larger rooms and organ music is performed in spaces with long RT60 times. These times all tend to be longer than the ideal RT60 time for reproducing music, 300ms to 500mS is a good range to aim for. 200mS will give more intelligible speech, 800mS will give a greater sense of scale, but for home use, somewhere around the 300-500mS decay time is good. However, as important as the RT60 time is, it should be reasonably smooth from LF to HF. If it's long at LF and falls like a stone at HF, the room will be unpleasantly bass heavy, the ideal is a smooth shortening of RT60 times as frequency rises, but staying somewhere around the 300-500mS mark.It's very important to not get too hung up about hearing a bit of reverb and trying to make a room too dead. Your brain knows roughly what contribution a room should make to the sound as soon as you walk into it and compensates for it. My first job was in a film dubbing studio and when I went into the voice over booth it was so acoustically dead that I literally couldn't hear myself speak which is ideal for a recording studio but crap for a listening environment. Similarly when I was working on the fit up of a West End musical the Production Sound Engineer sent a lad into the orchestra pit to dress the drum booth and he covered every surface to such a degree that the drummer was over playing the kit - literally beating the crap out of it - because he couldn't hear himself play, thus destroying any subtlety in his playing [such as there might be with a drummer !]. A bit of room treatment can help but if you do too much it will sound very unnatural.