It sounds so good, I don't even want to sneeze around it, let alone open it again.I guess at some point you could examine the nut in question to see if this truly was the cause.
I can certainly relate. That's why I said "at some point." Sometime down the road, you'll have it torn apart again.It sounds so good, I don't even want to sneeze around it, let alone open it again.
I just checked bounce on mine. Looks okay to this untrained eye. I went ahead and cleaned belt and pulleys, and checked and leveled. Level was ever so slightly off. Sounding really nice. Nobody sneeze! 
Look at me mom! Aren't you proud of your little boy?!?!
I brought one of my turntables to Thomas OK a few months back. I had "upgraded" to a Mober top plate and subchassis/arm board and cleverly used the installation of a new Karousel bearing as an excuse to let him truly balance the thing. This top plate has depressions built in that capture the rubber top grommets and make them almost impossible to turn. And I had a truly wonky bounce.
I loved watching him work and what struck me most was that he had to use the T-level to adjust the dangling spring support posts. I had thought for sure they were perfectly perpendicular but once done, the bounce became vertical.
Reading Peter Swain's manual on adjusting the bounce is also essential.
My plan is to never stray from the purist Linn fold again. "Better" is not always better!
Paul
I loved watching him work and what struck me most was that he had to use the T-level to adjust the dangling spring support posts. I had thought for sure they were perfectly perpendicular but once done, the bounce became vertical.
Reading Peter Swain's manual on adjusting the bounce is also essential.
My plan is to never stray from the purist Linn fold again. "Better" is not always better!
Paul
You must mean the subchassis regarding having no room to turn the top grommet and spring. ThomasOK must have loved working on that one.I brought one of my turntables to Thomas OK a few months back. I had "upgraded" to a Mober top plate and subchassis/arm board and cleverly used the installation of a new Karousel bearing as an excuse to let him truly balance the thing. This top plate has depressions built in that capture the rubber top grommets and make them almost impossible to turn. And I had a truly wonky bounce.
I loved watching him work and what struck me most was that he had to use the T-level to adjust the dangling spring support posts. I had thought for sure they were perfectly perpendicular but once done, the bounce became vertical.
Reading Peter Swain's manual on adjusting the bounce is also essential.
My plan is to never stray from the purist Linn fold again. "Better" is not always better!
Paul
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the nuts are nylock nuts. at least they are on my LP-12, last fettled in 1996, moved across the USA twice, and still bounces perfectly.Why not use a locking nut, which has some plastic material in it - those wont shift. They are an alternative to using a threadlocking compound such as blue Loctite.
Fingernail polish, the retro version of Loctite, was only used a few decades back into the last millenium. There have been several nuts that have been used to replace the original plain nuts including nylocks and at least three different styles of turret nuts. The current nuts for the suspension are the latest version turret nut and they are the best and most consistent in my opinion. Nylocks, while they were used for the suspension springs for a number of years, are not a good choice for adjusting the springs. The plastic that allows them to grip the threads will not necessarily take the thread evenly and can actually push the nut off center in a way that makes the top surface tilt the washer. This is why Linn went away from them for the springs while using them for the other positions until the last few years. Now they use a flange nut for other positions and previously used a nut with an attached star washer. I still prefer the nylocks for most positions other than the springs.Why not use a locking nut, which has some plastic material in it - those wont shift. They are an alternative to using a threadlocking compound such as blue Loctite.
Oh yeah, John76, I just loved working on that sub chassis. It is always a true pleasure to work with third party parts LP12 designed by people who don't know what they are doing (the majority in my experience).
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The LP12's that come from the Linn factory have excellent suspension rebound, does anyone know how Linn operates with all LP12's to get good suspension?
Thanks
Thanks
Every LP12 is built by one person at an LP12 building station.The LP12's that come from the Linn factory have excellent suspension rebound, does anyone know how Linn operates with all LP12's to get good suspension?
Thanks
The larger main components are delivered to the station by one of the three factory robots.
The smaller components are in designated compartments at the station.
Its a very skilled and experience required process then boxed up and shipped to the dealer for final installation to the customers build requirements.

Happy to help you’re welcome.Thank you Mr KANDID for your answer and the photo.
My guess is that only a few LP12s will end up going to customers as they are built at Linn. Most dealers will make the setup and "tweak" the setup...whether they can or not. 😜
Interesting. I thought LP12 were shipped in parts and assembled at the dealer(?)Every LP12 is built by one person at an LP12 building station.
It is possible but for quantity supply it’s built to standard spec.Interesting. I thought LP12 were shipped in parts and assembled at the dealer(?)
Each complete assembly is shipped to the dealer unless special instructions or individual parts are required.
I’ve seen every level of LP12 being built and then off to the dealer for final fettling and installation.


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