Guess what? I think 0,6 is best and most musical I've tried so far. Why this should be I've no idea. This torque is not much more than finger tight – so not too tight – but tight enough apparently.Just for fun, try 0,6 Nm for the 3K and let me know what you think. That's what I use...
I’m sure you’re right. Logically, tight enough is all that’s needed. Or am I missing something?Guess what? I think 0,6 is best and most musical I've tried so far. Why this should be I've no idea. This torque is not much more than finger tight – so not too tight – but tight enough apparently.
But if you’re a manufacturer I can see that it might make sense to assemble a bit tighter as screws rarely get tighter by themselves. (Irony mode off.
Or Linn could do like Spendor and issue correct torque values for each speaker...But if you’re a manufacturer I can see that it might make sense to assemble a bit tighter as screws rarely get tighter by themselves. (Irony mode off.)
Oh, do they? That’s interesting. I wonder if it’s how they make them - on which case it’ll be what’s needed, plus a bit extra if my theory holds good. Do you reckon Spendor do it for engineering reasons, or that they listen to multiple settings first?Or Linn could do like Spendor and issue correct torque values for each speaker...
I was going to ask ATC when I tightened my SCM40s, but I used Allen keys and just did it finger tight. I’ve not had the courage to try on my Guarneri as they look too pretty, and delicate!
Managed it – torqued to 1,1 nm (all slightly tightened).Can anyone post a photo of the upper mid driver of an Akubarik with the rubber ring removed, so I can see how this is fixed? (Seems very tight and I haven't had the courage to force it).
As do PMC from what I've seen.Or Linn could do like Spendor and issue correct torque values for each speaker...
Yes, you're missing that it has nothing to do with what seems "logical"!I’m sure you’re right. Logically, tight enough is all that’s needed. Or am I missing something?
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