Almost all of what sktn77a listed above is correct. However the numbers are not + or - "clicks" but + or - notches. The Sturtevant Richmont CAL36/4 torque driver most of us use has markings every .2Nm between .2Nm and 4.0Nm and has a series of nine notches in the base. The tab on the flip up handle fits into a notch when folded down. So the procedure is to adjust to the nearest marking, find which side the tab fits into the notch and count the appropriate number of notches up or down from there. The driver does click when the fastener is tightened to the right torque.
There is a torque for the motor wires to the plug that connects to a Lingo 4 board (also for the Majik motor) which is .2Nm -5.
There is a new torque for the Karousel bearing housing bottom cap and that is 7.0Nm! I downloaded a Linn document recommending possible torque drivers for attaching the Karousel to the subchassis. It mentioned that if you had to reattach the bottom cap that Linn used 6.5Nm at the factory and it shouldn't be tightened higher than 7.5Nm. Initially it didn't make sense as I never saw a bottom cap come from the factory that took even 3Nm to loosen so I ignored it. But in the back of my mind it was always working away at me that there might be a better torque. So I did some searching and found the type of torque driver that I prefer, one that breaks at the set torque so you can't apply too much and is more consistent, and that covered a higher range. I found one on Amazon,com that had very good ratings, went from 2Nm to 8Nm and could be relatively finely adjusted (not as fine as the SR Torque driver, which is still the best in the range it covers) so I bought it. I tested against my SR Torque driver at 3Nm and 4Nm and found it to be quite accurate (less than a notch difference). So I set to work on the bottom cap of an LP12 I had just installed a Karousel into and was still in the jig. 6.5Nm wasn't great, 7.0Nm was quite good, 7.5Nm was not too good either. I compared 7.0 to 2.4+2 and 7.0 was better! Then I tried 7.1, 6.9 (it has markings and stops at each .1Nm) and tried in between stops. I believe I got as close as about 7.02 or 7.03. Dead on 7.0 was the best and easily more musical than the previous 2.4+2 setting which, although still good, sounded as though it put a thin veil over the music and also detracted slightly from timing. Later I noticed that the calibration chart included with my driver said that the actual torque was 7.5 as the reading of 8.0, which is within spec (it was much closer at 2.0 and 5.0) so I tried up to 8.0 knowing it wouldn't be above Linn's maximum recommended torque. 7.0 is still the best. A couple of other people ordered the same torque driver and tried the new 7.0Nm torque. One of them put clips of the old and new torques on the Lejonklou forum not saying what they were. It was unanimous that the 7.0 setting was musically superior to the 2.4+2 setting and many were quite impressed by the musical difference. A few others have tried it and all have been pleased as have my customers who I have redone it for. Note that the optimum torque could change if the driver you get is calibrated differently at the 8.0 setting (I know of 3 so far that did show 7.5, including one I sent to Fredrik).
Here is the link on Amazon in the US for that driver:
Amazon product
If there are any torques you need for your setup that are not covered send me a PM with what you need and I'll get them to you. Also while some torques make a bigger difference musically than others I consider them all important. It is when you get everything really right with the LP12 setup that it truly sings and makes you want to dance to the music. Also when it comes to torques close is not enough. As the saying goes "Close only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades and first dates!" It definitely doesn't count in torque settings on Hi-Fi equipment. There are even a very few places where the optimum torque is a half notch - which is less than one hundredth of a Nm!
