Thomas Mayer amps

jatinder

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Hi all,

Has anyone here tried the Thomas Mayer amps with Avantgarde Duo Omega's (105dB/W)?

I'm quite interested in the 10Y pre-amp and the 45/2A3 monoblocks.

I do like to listen to all kinds of music incl rock/metal at ~95dB in a room approx 14' x 23' - I sit approx 12' from the speakers - so I'm questioning whether 2-3W is actually powerful enough.

Thanks,
--Jatinder
 

Rockchild

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Hi all,

Has anyone here tried the Thomas Mayer amps with Avantgarde Duo Omega's (105dB/W)?

I'm quite interested in the 10Y pre-amp and the 45/2A3 monoblocks.

I do like to listen to all kinds of music incl rock/metal at ~95dB in a room approx 14' x 23' - I sit approx 12' from the speakers - so I'm questioning whether 2-3W is actually powerful enough.

Thanks,
--Jatinder
If your speakers are firing down the room, I doubt a 3w amp is suitable for the type of music you listen to especially at 95dB! Despite the speaker sensitivity, I’d say no.
 

pmcuk

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Hi all,

Has anyone here tried the Thomas Mayer amps with Avantgarde Duo Omega's (105dB/W)?
I'm quite interested in the 10Y pre-amp and the 45/2A3 monoblocks. I do like to listen to all kinds of music incl rock/metal at ~95dB in a room approx 14' x 23' - I sit approx 12' from the speakers - so I'm questioning whether 2-3W is actually powerful enough.
Thanks, --Jatinder
I used to correspond a bit with Thomas Mayer in his DIY days before he went into manufacturing so I know a little about his construction methods, though nothing whatsoever about the actual sound of his amps and preamps. However, I also use a 10Y input stage and a 2a3 output stage in my self-built amps so I'm familiar with both, and they are about the best valves I've worked with in 12 years. So yes, I'd recommend both valves. Not the 45 which has less output than the 2a3 and I don't know if that would work in a larger room. I don't know if the 2a3 would work for you, maybe marginal maybe OK. It sounds better to me and others than the 300b, but has less power. I don't use the 10Y as a preamp - it's the driver part of the SE amp, with a 1:4 step-up transformer in front of it. I found this works very well. My system just has the 2 stages but I have a room 3.5 x 4.5 metres and don't listen loud.
 

Dejverzd

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The Avantgarde Duo Omega speakers with a sensitivity of 105dB/W are quite efficient, meaning they require less power to achieve higher volumes compared to less sensitive speakers. With that said, 2-3W of power can still deliver a satisfying listening experience in a typical room, especially if you are not seeking extremely high volume levels. It's always best to audition the equipment or consult with experts or forums dedicated to high-end audio systems to get specific recommendations and insights from those who have experience with the Thomas Mayer amps and Avantgarde speakers in a similar setup.
 

steve 57

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I listen quite loud to all types of music, all my amps vary from 1 to 4 watts and my speakers are a genuine 100 db each. So I would guess eq to at least 103 db commercial speaker pairs.

My 1 watt amp has better tone and detail but will still do 100 +db peaks with average measured listening levels in the mid 90dbs, that's been loud enough in a 40'x 60' room where I organise my diy audio meet ups.
I'm not really a fan of modern repro valves, but as already said, the better 2a3s are the better sounding of new production in my experence.
So much with single ended depends on the amplifier, the power supplies and output transformers in particular. But good valve types should transform any amplifier in my experence.
 
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Psilonaught

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What about a push pull 45 design, I've seen a few around.

The 45 is a very special sounding tube IMO, and the modern EML is better sounding than the NOS globes so tubes are readily available.

https://www.bartola.co.uk/valves/2019/02/16/45-push-pull-amplifier/

Crazy how much better the 45 is over a 300B in my experience, night and day but not compared to a 2a3.
 
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rabski

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As always, valves have a 'signature', but it's the circuit (particularly driver stages) and output transformers (or lack thereof) that make the sound. I've heard some 300B amps sound sublime and others a bit soft and ill defined. I have sparse experience of the 45, but I've listened to a number of 2a3 amps and again they have varied massively. The 45 push pull is an interesting idea, but PP designs inherently involve some cancellation effects, so I'd wonder how much of the magic dust will get blown away. My personal preference is to use one more powerful valve/circuit rather than two less powerful ones in PP or PSE.

As for the OP, it depends on how large a space you have and, more importantly, how loud you like to listen. The Avant Gardes have active bass, so are well suited to single-ended triode amplifiers in that damping factor will be less important. However, the quoted efficiency may still be marginal depending on your listening. I've heard AGs many times and come close to buying once or twice. The best combinations I've heard so far have all been with somewhat more power than would seem OK on paper. Rick has a pair and runs them with a 211, which would seem like overkill but actually works superbly. Others use 300B or even quite meaty solid state.

The Meyer amps fall into a rather special category. The build quality appears absolutely peerless, but you sure as hell pay for it. Buying new, you'd have to accept that you're either going to live with them for life or accept an absolute battering if you ever come to sell on. They would doubtless be relatively straightforward to repair if the worst ever happened, though if TM stops running his business at some point, you'd need to find someone capable of the same standards.
 
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jatinder

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Hi all,

Thanks for the responses and input so far.

I have to admit to generally preferring higher rather than lower power. Currently I run the Avantgarde's with a First Watt F5 (25W) and have a pair of KR Audio Kronzilla DMs awaiting repair (35 - 44W).

I've also used the Duo's with a Musical Fidelity M3 integrated amp (200W?).

They all sounded very good - but the Kronzilla is/was head and shoulders above the others in terms of realism.

--Jatinder
 
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pmcuk

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Currently I run the Avantgarde's with a First Watt F5 (25W) and have a pair of KR Audio Kronzilla DMs awaiting repair (35 - 44W). Kronzilla is/was head and shoulders above the others in terms of realism. --Jatinder
The KR T-1610 is a unique tube described as "2 KT 300BXLS in parallel". Costs somewhere around £1,000 and you need 4 so re-tubing isn't cheap. Once it's mended you're surely OK with that?

As Rabski says, if you like some power you could use a 845 or 211 for a more available tube. High voltages, so not everyone will work on them if they need servicing. But quite a few amps out there using these good sounding tubes.

Nice as the 10Y is, you my not need a preamp with the right amp and the right DAC feeding it. A 10Y driver stage in a 845 amp would be marvellous but that would be a custom build.
 

Psilonaught

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KR Audio Kronzilla DM, very nice!

I considered a pair of Kronzilla before finding a used Atma-sphere, I can imagine the Kronzilla is up in the higher echelons of tube amps (along with the Atma-sphere MA-1 if may be so bold) so I would suggest you just keep that frankly....

@jatinder out of interest what preamp do you use? I use the KR Audio P135, 45 tube pre, that's obviously a great match for the Kronzilla!
 
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pmcuk

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There is also a used pair of icon audio 845s on eBay but I personally don't like that brand, smacks of lo-fi
All 845 amps are not created equal - it depends on the driver circuit for starters and you can't just accept a few 9 pin tubes as state of the art. In the Icon the input is 6SL7 and choke loaded 6SN7. The 6SN7 is a good choice but adding the 6SL7 stage will affect ultimate transparency. Could be worse, could be better. It's pretty typical.
 

jatinder

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I'm frightened to take the Kronzillas to be repaired in case I need new valves!

I bought them new in 2003 and they've been flawless up until recently, when I noticed that one of the tubes was cold (when on)...haven't used them since.

The pre-amp is (usually) a Silvaweld 1000R, but that's awaiting parts for its own repair...so at the moment, it's just the Oppo 205 direct to the F5 amp. Looks quite likely that the parts are unobtainium today so I may well need a new pre.

I was thinking of the KR Audio P135...but that's for later.

The only issue I had with the Kronzilla's and Silvaweld pre was that of gain, the system did have slightly too much gain, so there was some noise at higher volume settings. Hence, why I'm interested in lower power - it's just that I don't know how low is too low.

--Jatinder
 

pmcuk

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The pre-amp is (usually) a Silvaweld 1000R, but that's awaiting parts for its own repair...

The only issue I had with the Kronzilla's and Silvaweld pre was that of gain, the system did have slightly too much gain, so there was some noise at higher volume settings. Hence, why I'm interested in lower power - it's just that I don't know how low is too low. --Jatinder
The Silvaweld is a rare beast but you do see them up for sale used. It's a valve circuit, so the valves should be available, must be other parts. Apparently the remote can have issues.

As you may know, gain isn't the same as power. Noise can come from all kinds of things and isn't directly related to power or gain. But as you say, it's better to just have the gain you need and cut out redundant stages.
 

Psilonaught

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Your taste in equipment is most impressive.

Regarding the Kronzilla, have you tried resetting the "cold" tube?

Just yesterday I noticed one on the CV181 tubes my OTLs wasn't powering up, I'd been messing with different tubes in that position. A quick reseat sorted it. Poor contact.
 

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