Do people reckon that the Tannoy DC4 Signature enclosure/crossover would make a good choice for enclosure/crossover to pair with the Tannoy Autograph Mini drivers?
Crossovers are designed to suit the particular characteristics of a pair of drivers, so I think it unlikely that a crossover designed for the DC4 would be ideal for use with the Autograph Mini driver. Similarly, unless the T-S parameters for the two midbass drivers are a close match, the cab volume and port size may not be ideal for a different driver. Better off measuring the T-S params for the Autograph Mini (just the midbass driver) and running a sim using (e.g.,) Basta! to see what cab volume and port size would be ideal, then hooking up a DSP-based crossover (such as one of the miniDSP units).Do people reckon that the Tannoy DC4 Signature enclosure/crossover would make a good choice for enclosure/crossover to pair with the Tannoy Autograph Mini drivers?
Crossovers are designed to suit the particular characteristics of a pair of drivers, so I think it unlikely that a crossover designed for the DC4 would be ideal for use with the Autograph Mini driver. Similarly, unless the T-S parameters for the two midbass drivers are a close match, the cab volume and port size may not be ideal for a different driver. Better off measuring the T-S params for the Autograph Mini (just the midbass driver) and running a sim using (e.g.,) Basta! to see what cab volume and port size would be ideal, then hooking up a DSP-based crossover (such as one of the miniDSP units).
Whatever.Hi Tony,
I have heard from MainlyTannoy and another Tannoy expert that cannibalising parts from other 4 inch woofer Tannoy designs/LS5a crossovers could be the way to go. Although I think I've overspammed them with enquiries and haven't heard back from them in a while.
I think the DSP active crossover stuff is a bit too complicated for me for now, and will probably look to start with passive before moving towards active once I have a better understanding of how that all works.
I will just add that when making a two way speaker which is what I would advise for a first build active DSP is much easier and more easily adjusted than any passive . You also have the certainty that so long as you have the cr points then your cr will be exactly at that point and with the slope of the cr fully in your control . But if you do not wish to learn from others experience and in my case mistakes then as Tony says so be it .
To be brutally honest, you seem to have neither the knowledge needed to tackle a project like this, nor the knowledge needed to understand when you are being given good (or bad) advice. I don't see this project ending well for you.If I'm going to be honest, I wouldn't even know where to start with regards to active crossovers and using MiniDSPs.
I lack fundamental understanding of passive crossovers, which in turn makes it hard for me to comprehend how something like a MiniDSP works itself into being an active crossover.
I've tried watching videos online. But they mostly feature some MiniDSP graph on a PC, without actually explaining how a MiniDSP factors into the whole setup.
I would be willing to give it a go, but at the moment it just comes across as a massive leap of faith.
Also I wanted to know if it would still be possible to pair an active crossover setup with an integrated amplifier (that has no DAC) such as the Musical Fidelity M2Si.
Zaiden, Based on your answers above and a potential unwillingness to give it a go with DSP I also feel that trying to re-engineer a speaker from some drive units is not the best approach for you. You'd get far better results by just buying the whole speaker including x-over and cabinet as developed by the manufacturer. Asking for advice is one thing but asking for others to design it for you is probably a big leap too far.To be brutally honest, you seem to have neither the knowledge needed to tackle a project like this, nor the knowledge needed to understand when you are being given good (or bad) advice. I don't see this project ending well for you.
The integrated amplifier would be acting as a pre-amplifier into active crossover setup which would in turn be fed into your power amps. The power amp section of the integrated would not be used.Also I wanted to know if it would still be possible to pair an active crossover setup with an integrated amplifier (that has no DAC) such as the Musical Fidelity M2Si.
Might I suggest it could be helpful if you were to describe your current setup, your experience of electronics if any, and what you seek to achieve through this project which you can’t achieve (or can’t afford to achieve!) through buying “readymade” components designed, in themselves, to work as best they can at their price point?
Not the right ball park at all, as Tannoy's chosen crossover point for the minis is more like 2.5 kHz IIRC, and the i8 DC drivers will have been designed around the characteristics of their 8" DC drivers. Perfect fit...? Not.I've got a few sets of tannoy i8 DC crossovers here, they'll get you in the ball park and with their 2 nd order 1.7 kHz crossover point may possibly be a perfect fit....
Not the right ball park at all, as Tannoy's chosen crossover point for the minis is more like 2.5 kHz IIRC, and the i8 DC drivers will have been designed around the characteristics of their 8" DC drivers. Perfect fit...? Not.
Until I am able to compare the T-S parameters and FR curves of the other 4" DC with those of the Autograph Mini, no.So while not ideal compared to miniDSP, based on this statement, do you think crossovers for any of Tannoy's 4" DC drivers (DC4, XT Mini, etc) would be able to pair decently with the Autograph Minis?
Would it not be possible to start off with a crossover/enclosure from another Tannoy 4" DC speaker, then incrementally upgrade to miniDSP when I have more funds/am feeling more confident re MiniDSP?
Ah for some reason, thread title, I was under the impression the OP had i6 DC drivers - which have the same hf diaphragm and tulip as the i8 with a 1.6Not the right ball park at all, as Tannoy's chosen crossover point for the minis is more like 2.5 kHz IIRC, and the i8 DC drivers will have been designed around the characteristics of their 8" DC drivers. Perfect fit...? Not.
We did.All said rather than getting stroppy with an obvious novice why not recommend REW, purchase of DATS 3 and Xsim (or any of these):