The suggestions I made about how to set the tracking force on an Ekos do not apply to an Ittok LVII. In that case the reading on the dial will be the same as what a scale would read if you floated the arm properly first. As to optimum tracking force that can vary a bit from unit to unit, although the Krystal and Kandid seem very consistent at 1.75 grams. Note that although the Ittok is only marked in .05 increments you can go between the marks. Don't be afraid to try down to .01 increments. On the Akiva I found most were best at 1.72 grams.
You can pick up one of the no-name tracking force gauges from China for around $15 or less. (You can also buy the same exact thing with a brand name on it for over $100.) I have one of these and they are mostly OK. Sometimes after reading the TF it will settle back to .003 instead of .000. Then I just reset it and measure again to make sure it is right. I now mostly use a Rega gauge as it is more consistent, easier to use and built like a tank. But it is also $245 and big enough I have to carry it separately from my turntable toolkit. But getting one of the cheap ones lets you make sure everything is OK with the settings. Cheap peace of mind.
You can pick up one of the no-name tracking force gauges from China for around $15 or less. (You can also buy the same exact thing with a brand name on it for over $100.) I have one of these and they are mostly OK. Sometimes after reading the TF it will settle back to .003 instead of .000. Then I just reset it and measure again to make sure it is right. I now mostly use a Rega gauge as it is more consistent, easier to use and built like a tank. But it is also $245 and big enough I have to carry it separately from my turntable toolkit. But getting one of the cheap ones lets you make sure everything is OK with the settings. Cheap peace of mind.