Yamaha NS-1000M.

[craigmclellan]

I've moved them around a few times to no avail. I would have thought if it were just dirty pots, when moving them there'd be at least some scratchy sound?

 

[Valvebloke]

I've moved them around a few times to no avail. I would have thought if it were just dirty pots, when moving them there'd be at least some scratchy sound?

I'm afraid you're right. It does sound like the tweeters' voice coils are open. It's a well-known fault. Don't blame yourself for not noticing immediately either. The midrange driver goes up quite high, so the whole top end wouldn't be missing. If you turn the midranges off on a pair where all three drivers are working you basically get the bass plus a tizzing noise from the tweeters, and that's all they do. Apparently people have gone for years without noticing that theirs have blown.

I have also heard that they may be repairable. ISTR that they usually blow right at one end of the voicecoil, so you just have to unwind a little bit of the wire and reconnect to that. The trick is to get the dome-and-coil unit out without damaging it and then to get it back in centred.

Alternatively people do break these speakers from time to time, often in the USA where there are loads more than here. The tweeters shouldn't be too expensive to ship across, unlike the midranges which weigh a great deal more. When I needed a new mid I was lucky enough to find a Wammer who was breaking a pair.

If the guy takes them back and breaks them carefully he might well make nearly as much money for the bass and midrange drivers and the crossovers as he would have got from you for the whole speakers.

VB

 

[craigmclellan]

I can't see me being successful with getting any money out of him, quite honestly.

I can do a bit of SMD soldering, but I fear if I tried to dissect the tweeter I would myself end up making it worse (if possible). Is there anyone in the thread who'd be willing to have a look at the tweeters for me? Of course, I will pay for the service. I've not bought these to make profit, I just want to enjoy them. If it is going to be hugely expensive to try and sort them myself, then I may resort to parting them and selling the parts which do work (just tested them as thoroughly as is possible, both mids and the woofers are fine.)

 

[Baggawire]

I've been looking forward to welcoming you to the club Craig so you have my sympathy. Spare mid ranges and tweeters are getting increasingly rare for the NS1000 and when they do come up are damn expensive. Since the mids and the bass drivers are working you could get some cash back by flogging them as spares as Valvebloke suggests.

 

[craigmclellan]

If it's going to be expensive to get the tweeters sorted, I think I will just part them.

 

[stereo70]

You need to test them first, do you have a multimeter?

If so, remove the tweeters , disconnect the wires (these may have to be cut as mine were soldered on in the factory) then test with the multimeter, they should read around 7 or 8 ohms if working correctly.

This is the first step and will determine the next line of action.

If the ribbon wire making up the voice coil is broken it isnt the end of the world and it is an easy fix, just very fiddly.

Test them first with the multimeter and let us know how you get on.

Edit - This is how I repaired mine, you may have to register to see the photos.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=477605&highlight=pitabread

Can I ask how much you paid for them? If you got them cheap enough then repair them, if you paid top price for them I'd be chasing my money back and waiting for a working set to come along.

 

[stereo70]

Another test you could do, well , I did it, is to wire temporarily another known working tweeter to the wires connecting the Yamaha tweeters, this will tell you if you have a signal to them or not.

 

[Beobloke]

I can do a bit of SMD soldering' date=' but I fear if I tried to dissect the tweeter I would myself end up making it worse (if possible). Is there anyone in the thread who'd be willing to have a look at the tweeters for me? [/quote']

If you decide to hang on to them I'd be happy to have a poke round the tweeters for you.

 

[Sir_Franc]

Sorry if I've missed a bit, but have you checked to see if the tweeters are actually connected? This may sound daft, but I once bought a pair of speakers that worked fine at the sellers house, but noticed when playing at mine the tweeters weren't working. It seems the original soldering was poor and the journey home had caused a joint to break on each tweeter! Quick fix once detected, but scary moment at first. You never know.

 

[craigmclellan]

You need to test them first, do you have a multimeter?If so, remove the tweeters , disconnect the wires (these may have to be cut as mine were soldered on in the factory) then test with the multimeter, they should read around 7 or 8 ohms if working correctly.

This is the first step and will determine the next line of action.

If the ribbon wire making up the voice coil is broken it isnt the end of the world and it is an easy fix, just very fiddly.

Test them first with the multimeter and let us know how you get on.

Edit - This is how I repaired mine, you may have to register to see the photos.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=477605&highlight=pitabread

Can I ask how much you paid for them? If you got them cheap enough then repair them, if you paid top price for them I'd be chasing my money back and waiting for a working set to come along.

I paid £550 for them and got the grills, so I did really get a fairly good deal. I was just disappointed as the cabinets are beat up and felt £550 was a fair price because of that alone.

I've just taken the tweeter out so will get to work on it, nothing to lose.

 

[Tenson]

It could also be possible, with some crossover adjustments, to use another tweeter maybe something nice like a ScanSpeak. Depends how you would feel about having a non-standard tweeter in there. I don't want to give the idea it is straight forward though.

 

[craigmclellan]

How do you remove the grill?

I can't make it budge! (Tweeter is out of the cabinet and on my bench, rubber going around the mesh will not move, nor will the mesh itself.)

 

[stereo70]

550 is a very good deal, with a bit of luck and a steady hand you can save these, and it wont cost you a penny.

Well, you will need new tips for the soldering iron , a decent iron, some fine solder, an old tweeter to get some ribbon wire from (old headphones also work) should you need it and a magnifying glass (this is very very important), a magnifying glass on a stand is good because you will be using both hands to do the work, and you will need some fine pointy tools. A coctail stick with a very fine slit in the end is ideal for holding thin wire while you solder it.

Appparently the tweeters go on these speakers through being constantly underpowered.

- - - Updated - - -

How do you remove the grill?I can't make it budge! (Tweeter is out of the cabinet and on my bench, rubber going around the mesh will not move, nor will the mesh itself.)

Have you tested it yet? Test it before stripping it.

 

[craigmclellan]

I have a good Weller Iron with a tip meant for SMD stuff. Amazingly I also have a little iron block with a magnifying glass on them, so i have the tools.

I just cannot work out how to get the mesh off of the tweeter

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, 0 on impedance testing with the multimeter.

 

[stereo70]

I have a good Weller Iron with a tip meant for SMD stuff. Amazingly I also have a little iron block with a magnifying glass on them, so i have the tools.I just cannot work out how to get the mesh off of the tweeter

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, 0 on impedance testing with the multimeter.

I take it you tested the resistance on them and they are open?

- - - Updated - - -

Mine didnt have grilles but apparently they are a press fit? Be careful.

 

[craigmclellan]

When you touch the contacts the display reads the same as though they arent proving anything (0.L) and if you touch a wire which is working it changes to zero impedance.

I've run a sharp knife around both edges of the rubber, no avail.

 

[craigmclellan]

As a side note: I cannot stand it when I can carry out SMD soldering with no trouble at all, but I am near defeated when it comes to removing a wire mesh from a tweeter.

Pffft.

 

[stereo70]

Take your time fella, have a cuppa.

This is a stripped tweeter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/icre8art/5864115714/

There is a guy on eBay usa who will fix one for 50 quid ,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-NS-1000-NS-1000-M-NS-500M-Monitor-Beryllium-Dome-TWEETER-Repair-Service-/281036028454

You could replace them with something else or you could wait until a pair show up, they do come up from time to time.

Have a google for ns1000 tweeter repair, loads of info out there on google.

You could ask that Japanese company who refurb JBL and Yamaha speakers, is it Kendrick Audio?

 

[Clubsport911]

Sorry (really) to hear of your plight. I have repaired a few tweeters... But you will need something quite hard to organise-! Namely a working tweeter, a micrometer and access to wire.

Most likely, the voice coil is open circuit. You may be lucky and be able to effect a repair. Have you tried a professional rewinders ?

Also, see below

http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=47986.0

The best around (and one I've used is DC Boulting). These folks, wake up every single day and rewind speakers.

Please go to bed tonight worry free... They can help

http://www.audioloudspeakers.co.uk/boultons.shtml

 

[stereo70]

Or you could try these chaps.

http://www.wembleyloudspeaker.com/